Cusco is one of the continents oldest continuously inhabited cities, and the former capital of the Incan Empire. Despite it being Perus 10th most populous city, it certainly ranks higher when it comes to its popularity with tourists, that claim can largely be put down to its accessibility to Machu Picchu. At 3400 metres, much higher than Machu Picchu itself, you will feel the altitude in Cusco. We travelled from Arequipa overnight and stayed in Cusco twice during our time in Peru, split up by our Inca Trail trek, and in total it was the city we spent the most time in throughout our trip to South America, and ranks amongst our favourites. We then continued on to Puno, our last stop in Peru.
Before we start talking about things to do, we would like to say that there is so much to do between Lima and Cusco, so if you have the time, don't jump on a plane or a long bus between the 2, take your time, make many stops, and travel through, but not straight through and certainly not over. This will also aid acclimatisation as you reach Cusco ready for some big hikes.
You'll be amazed by Cusco's architecture, colonial buildings layered on Incan foundations. We visited in October, during the day the weather was warm but a pleasant, in the evenings, however, prepare for the temperature to plummet and it to get rather chilly.
Things to do in Cusco
City walking tour
When you arrive take a walking tour of the city, there's lots to learn and it will give you a chance to get your bearings. Lots of walking tours are free from hostels or included in a tour, if not you can easily find a cheap walking tour.
Markets
Cusco has a wealth of colourful, eye-catching markets to explore. We found some stalls were very similar to ones we saw throughout our time in South America, if you want some of the more generic souvenirs and you're travelling to Bolivia, you'll find them cheaper there. Luxury alpaca products are best bought in Cusco but we're talking hundreds of pounds. We still found some hidden markets tucked away and different things amongst the stalls in the larger markets and of course bought some Christmas presents to take home. Be prepared to bargain with the vendors, it's common practice but obviously be reasonable.
San Pedro Market - Prepare for all your senses to be taken over, in one of the biggest and busiest markets in Cusco. Try local fruit, get some groceries or a snack, there's multiple freshly made juice stalls, or try some traditional cuisine. Then venture through the trinkets, mountains of alpaca scarfs and ponchos. You'll find similar things at Centro Artesanal Cusco.
On Saturdays experience the Baratillo Market, but your best bet is to go find the small markets tucked away, that's where you'll find the best things, including incredible art (you can get it rolled up in a tube so its easy to continue on your travels with!
Viewpoints
So you'll find the best view of Cusco by going on a short but steep hike, to the statue of Cristo Blanco overlooking the city. Sounds simple right well with mixed directions, we struggled to find the way up. There is a direct route through Sacsayhuman ruins, for this you'll need to pass a checkpoint, in order to do so you must pay for or have a Cusco Tourist ticket, these are pretty pricy. We'd been told you can reach the viewpoint for free, so we were determined to do so. It will take you a minimum of 30 minutes from the centre of Cusco, but more than likely it will take a bit longer, especially considering the altitude. We made it though, continue round the bend from the checkpoint for the free route up, and it was worth it!
Another view point that isn't quite as far is Mirador de Plaza Sán Cristobal, and is definitely worth considering.
San Blas
Described as an artisan neighbourhood, you'll notice a slight change in architecture and more boutique shops, galleries and many locals favourite restaurants. From the main plaza to San Blas Plaza it is quite steep, like much of Cusco. The markets and shops tucked away here, are where you'll find more authentic souvenirs that you won't see anywhere else and some great artwork to buy!
To get there walk along Hatunrumiyoc Street. A Incan cobblestone construction, it is one of the best preserved original Incan roads. The large stones, that line the narrow pedestrianised street, engulf you. This is also where you'll find the 12 angled stone, famous for its perfectly carved 12 corners and 12 sides.
Massage
After the Inca trail, Salkantay or Lares or another trek you happen to choose, head back to Cusco via Aguas Caliente and book yourself in for a full body massage, you deserve it! You also don't need to blow the budget, aim for something mid range, under the advise of locals and our tour guide don't go for something super cheap, prices start at less than 30 soles, aim for something more mid range, but even at mid range a full body massage is still cheaper than a basic shoulder massage back in the UK.
Museums
Visit a Chocolate Museum, however, they are much like the ones in Lima.
Inka museum
Art galeries
Sacsayhuman
Got a bit more money to spend head to Sacsayhuman. Take a 30 minute walk, up hill to the check point, where you'll need to show a city pass to enter or buy one, like we mentioned earlier these are quite pricy. Opt to go marvel at the huge stones and wonder just how the Incas managed to construct such a fortress all those years ago. Nicknamed the New World Stone Henge, and one of the least known and underrated Incan ruins in Peru.
Outside of Cusco
Hiking and Trekking
Cusco is the most common base for some of some of Peru and the world's most famous hikes. Though journeys to Machu Picchu then go via Ollyantaytambo or Aguas Caliente, Cusco is much larger and therefore visited at some point by all travellers on route. It's a great place to begin to acclimatise before heading off on these hikes, like we mentioned in our Vinicunca Mountain blog post, don't think you can fly in from home (unless home happens to be at altitude), or Lima and head straight to Vinicunca or straight onto the Inca Trail, you will feel ill, it will be incredibly difficult and you won't enjoy it.
So use Cusco wisely, for your base for Rainbow Mountain and whichever way you choose to visit Machu Picchu, whether that be the Inca Trail, Lares Trek, the train or many more options. Need to pick up any clothing or equipment last minute Cusco has some great outdoor shops.
Other day trips from Cusco
Visit some starkly different landscape on day trips from Cusco. These are some of the trips tour companies might included if you are a member of the group getting the train to Machu Picchu and meeting the rest of your tour group from the Inca trail for instance.
Maras Salt Terraces in the Sacred Valley - £15 day trip (some trips will venture to more stops in the Sacred Valley it depends what you're after) and 10 soles entrance fee.
Go quad biking, theres different areas and route companies will go pick the one that suits you, some will pass the Maras Salt Terraces and travel through the Sacred Valley passing even more Incan Ruins (Moray), starting from around £30, so it depends how tight your budget is
Take a trip to Lake Humantay and marvel at the Salkantay glacier and stunning scenery, trips cost around £30
Ollyantaytambo is a must visit, many visitors will naturally pass through here and often spend a night or 2 on the way to the Inca Trail check point, if its not already on your itinerary put it on
Of course there's more Incan ruins sites than you could imagine
Places to eat and food experiences in Cusco
Food Experiences
If you don't get the chance to visit the Amazon rainforest and partake in a chocolate making workshop, right at its source, then this is your next best option.
One of the most famous drinks in Peru, a pisco sour. Both Peruvians and Chileans claim they invented it, but we will leave that debate there, take a class in pisco making at a bar or save some money on drinks and get a workshop included before your meal at some restaurants.
Take a cooking class and learn how to make some Peruvian cuisine, this activity is also good in Lima
Places to Eat
Jacks Cafe is the place to go for breakfast in particular, though it is served all day, after a night bus this is just what we needed, big portions and great food, it is, however, very much western food
There's plenty places to eat around Plaza de Armas, now we can't remember its name but theres a cafe on the corner with a balcony, looking directly across to the cathedral, this is a lovely place to chill, relieve your feet from all the walking, with a nice lunch, great cake and an ideal place to people watch and take in your surroundings above the hussle and bustle of the streets below.
Paddy's Irish pub claims to be the highest pub in the world, find fellow backpackers here
For the best views of Cusco from a rooftop terrace visit Limbus Restobar
Of course we ate at a few Peruvian restaurants, ask your guides and accommodation staff for recommendations locals know best, we can't remember the names of the places we were recommended but we certainly weren't disappointed
San Blas also has some quaint cafes and nice restaurants, there really is some hidden gems here, so don't miss the chance to explore it
You may be tempted by the Mcdonalds, KFC or Starbucks here, after potentially weeks without seeing them, you won't be disappointed by the food in Cusco if you avoid these, however, unfortunately they are the only places open when you return late at night after a long days hiking, so if you have a craving for them save it for when they are the only option, and make the most of the other options when you can!
Socks and Sandals
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