Tofino is a place off the beaten track, one that is dramatically wild and tranquil at the same time. It is surrounded by the islands and inlets of Clayoquot sound, an UNESCO biosphere reverse, an important site to the Nuu-chah-nulth nations for its biodiversity. It is a popular destination, yet it does not get the recognition other destinations in West Canada get, thus it doesn't quite get as large crowds! Check out our full roadtrip here.
How to get there, most of you will find yourself flying into or out of Vancouver, British Columbia, a transport hub of Western Canada, making it an ideal location to start or end your trip to the rockies, but don't fly home just yet. Take a ferry from Tsawwassen, Vancouver to Victoria, Vancouver Island or Horseshoe Bay, Vancouver to Nanaimo, Vancouver Island.
Drive time to ferry port: 40 minutes (dependant on where you're staying in Vancouver)
Ferry time: 1.5-2 hours
Drive time Nanaimo to Tofino: 3 hours
Drive time Victoria to Tofino: 4 hours 45 minutes
Don't be fooled by the word island, it is actually bigger than the likes of Belgium. So buckle up, and set off towards on the far west of the island where you'll find paradise in the form of Tofino. This whole roadtrip is full of scenic drive and here's another one voted one of the best in the world, the Pacific Rim Highway, British Columbia, particularly the section between Port Alberni and Tofino. The 90 minute section chicanes through stunning scenery and is the best route to take. Enhancing the sense of reaching the edge of the continent.
A bit of history; The 14 Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations territory is on the Pacific North West Coast, specifically Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations who's traditional territories were absorbed upon the creation of Pacific Rim Reserve, in the 70's. Thankfully in recent years, they have slowly started to reclaim some land, Esowista. Meares Island Tribal Park was established in the 80's and the Tla-o-qui-aht managed it according to their traditional values, yet with the lost of a large part of their territory, the focus of Hishuk Ish Tsa’walk - everything is one, everything is connected, was lost along with it. With the introduction of several conservation and protection order, most of the traditional territory is now covered. Rhe Tla-o-qui-aht have always looked at how to look after their traditional territory to benefit of future ancestors. There is further conservation efforts, as Tla-o-qui-aht now work in partnership with other bodies to prevent the devastating consequence of climate change, in turn ensuring the wellbeing of the as Tla-o-qui-aht people. Even more important as they can move inland to high land as the coast is being eroded. The Nuu-chah-nulth still works tirelessly for the continued reconciliation of the 14 first nations.
In the Wakashan language of the First Nations, Nuu-Chah-Nulth translates to
'All along the Mountains and Sea'.
The tourism industry has been thriving for years now, whilst the first nations still struggle to claim what is theres. As part of 'Tofino's Vital Conversation on Tourism' they highlight how important it was to convey that we are guests on the these first nation homelands, and we need to behave accordingly as good guests. Despite the fact first nations tourism is developing, they are not benefiting equally and this must be addressed, in order to help culture thrive at the edge of the world.
As the owner of Ocean Outfitters said 'It's imperative for Tofino's tourism sector to look in the mirror and examine how it relates to the land and see, this misty place on the edge of the continent that can move people so profound, even spiritually'. That's why it's important to choose who you support wisely, support first nations company or company's that support the first nations.
Stops and Top view points on route:
Cathedral Grove
Old Country Market (Goats on a Roof), Coombs
Kennedy Lake Provincial Park
Here's some suggestions of what to do and where to go during your stay in Tofino:
Bear watching
Duration: 2-2.5 hours
Price: approx $100 per adult
10% off when booking 2 excursions
15% off when booking 3+ excursions
Height and Weight Restrictions on Zodiac
Provided with floatation suit still for the zodiac boat dress warm, for the covered vessel dress comfortably. Bring sunglasses, a warm hat and a camera of course.
Book ahead of time.
We would highly Ocean Outfitters or Remote Passages for their tours. Ocean Outfitters were Tofino's first carbon neutral tourism company and plow profits back into an array of environmental and conservation projects. Choose from a thrill ride on a zodiac tour or a calmer experience on a covered vessel, I'd recommend doing one of each.
Journey into the calm waters of Clayoquot sound to watch black bears on the coast of Meares Island. One of the most dense bear populations in the world can be found here on Vancouver Island. Importantly, Ocean Outfitters pay a user fee to the Tia-o-qui-aht nation, for every guest who visit the Mears Island Tribal Park.
Trips are always scheduled at low tide. This is when the shores line is exposed and becomes accessible to bears, as they forage for Rock Crabs and other treats on the shore line. Watch as they dig their noses in and claw open food.
There is something about viewing bears from the water, watching them in their search for food, it's so different to spotting them from a car window, or out on a hike, and it feels much less intrusive almost, as complete silence comes over the boat and you just bob up and down on the calm waters.
Also be sure to look out for other wildlife includes bald eagles high up in the trees. Check out ocean outfitters website for more on there environment and wildlife policies.
Whale watching
Duration: 2.5-3 hours
Price: approx $100 per adult
10% off when booking 2 excursions
15% off when booking 3+ excursions
Height and Weight Restrictions on Zodiac
Provided with floatation suit still for the zodiac boat dress warm, for the covered vessel dress comfortably. Bring sunglasses, a warm hat and a camera of course.
Book ahead of time.
Another ocean safari, this time head out into Clayoquot sound where you might get your first sightings, then journey further into the open waters of the Pacific. If you've been on a land safari looking for the big 5, you'll definitely love an ocean safari just as much. Yet again, would highly recommend Ocean Outfitters or Remote Passages, at the very least because you get a combined booking deal but more importantly their trips and guides are just excellent. Again, choose from a thrill ride on a zodiac tour or a calmer experience on a covered vessel, we'd recommend doing the opposite to what you opt for on bear watching, to experience both.
There's a board outside their office, which has a list of all the whales, they will tick off what they've seen each day in the last week or so, not one day that week had they seen every possible whale you can see near Vancouver Island, but guess what we got stupidly lucky and after our trip, they all got a tick that day.
Depending on the time of year can depend on the likelihood of sighting, we found ourselves there in late August. Gray Whales swim past on their annual migration towards Alaska, some, however do not complete their full migration and spend their summers feeding off the west coast of Vancouver Island.
The likelihood of seeing other whales is harder to track, and it is often as much to a surprise of the guides as it is to the guests if they're spotted. The guides, however, do come across as having a 6th sense, and if they're reported to be around, they'll use their experience and knowledge to give you the best chance at viewing them.
The power of a breaching humpback will take your breathe away. Transient Orcas (killer whales) can be found searching for their prey in the coastal waters so you might just spot them. Whilst resident orcas can be found eating fish further south. Fun fact; orcas aren't actually whales instead they are the world's largest dolphin species.
You'll more than likely also see Sea Lions, Seals, cute Otters and maybe some Porpoise, not to be mistaken for Dolphins which are more common off other coasts of Vancouver Island.
Beaches and Surfing
For many paradise needs warm water, and Tofino certainly does not have warm waters, but if you can get past that, and dive into the freezing Pacific Ocean, where water temperatures usually hover around 10C, then you just won't want to leave from this blissful remote island paradise. At one point in time, you would have seen a lot more people carrying a fishing rod through Tofino, now its much more common to spot someone carrying a surfboard, that's because as mentioned earlier its one of the top surfing locations in the world. The beaches are so unique, with a backdrop of the temperate rainforest and colourful starfish dotted all over.
Just grab yourself a thick wetsuit, that's for sure, if you don't want to bring your own their are plenty of hire shops with top quality wetsuits around town, and surfing lessons and hire as well.
You'll notice Tsunami warning signs by some parts of the coast, if you've never been to a Tsunami hazard zone before these can take you a bit by surprise, I know they did the first time I saw them.
The best beaches can be found in Tofino and Ucluelet. Despite, there popularity, they never felt too crowded, in fact compared to a British beach on a summers day, they almost felt deserted. Lots of room both on the beaches and in the surf. The parking spot, however, will fill up quickly.
Chesterman beach
When a local says they're going to the beach they probably mean this one, and for good reason. It's a large expanse, lots of wildlife and great for beginner surfers. When the sandspit to Frank Island emerges take a walk over just don't get stuck.
Cox Bay
The top surfing spot on the island, so good it hosts surfing competitions, so if surfings what you're here for, Cox Bay is where you should be heading.
Long beach
Appropriately named as well, it's the longest beach on the island, totalling 16km. Look out to the ocean and you might just spot a whale coming up for air or a tail poking out.
Alternatively, try Big beach, Ucluelet it's a sandy beach with volcanic rocks and has access to the Wild Pacific Trail. For peace and quiet try Half moon bay and for calm waters try Mackenzie Beach.
"Sitting astride a surfboard off North Chesterman Beach on a winter day, with the sky as incandescent a blue as the inside of an abalone shell, and Sitka spruce towering along the shoreline dusted in snow, it’s hard not to agree—Tofino’s overwhelming sense of calm and beauty is, well, spiritual."
- Andrew Findlay
There's no landmass between here and Japan, so imagine the storms in winter. That's exactly why storm watching has started to attract tourists, and is becoming increasingly popular in winter months. It is a great way for businesses to attract tourists in the low season. Do, however, be careful if you opt to go during this season, it can be dangerous, and some company's do exploit this, an advertised get up close dinner right on the beach front watching the storm might just be a recipe for disaster.
Parks and Trails
You're at the heart of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve so there is no shortage of trails on offer, do stick to the path. As you hike through the pristine rainforest, just remember, Vancouver Island has one of the most dense bear populations in the world and a human habituated bear, is a dead bear, don't contribute to this. Know what to do if you encounter a bear, the best and most ethical way to see bears is a bear watching tour, go with the experts, clear views at a distance from the water, no surprise encounters, it's much better and safer for you and the bear.
Weather is unreliable in Tofino, so if you're headed out hiking be prepared for every weather eventuality.
The Wild Pacific Trail
This famous stretch encompasses several trails which I would highly recommend to experience the rainforest and coast and if you're going to do any on this list make these your top, 'Ancient Cedars and Rocky Bluffs' (25 minutes - 1 way), 'Browns Beach to Artist Loops' (1 hours - 1 way) and 'the Lighthouse loop' (1 hours loop).
Rainforest Loop Trail
2 short 2km trails either side of the highway venturing into the majestic rainforest, a popular trail and rightly so. Though a popular trail on the island for us was no where near as busy as a trail considered popular in the rockies.
Tonquin Park
There is a boardwalk that leads through the lush rainforest, a ravine over a creek then onto, you guessed it Tonquin beach, so if you want a little bit of everything try here.
Thorton Creek Hatchery
An area protecting and sustaining salmon stocks for that reason it is very popular with bears looking for food in the river. There is trails on the board walks but you'll also notice signs 'bears walk on this walkway, be aware you could meet one' if that's not daunting I don't know what is, bears always have right of way remember that. If you're not experience hiking in places with bears, this isn't the one for you.
Meares Island
Catch a water taxi and pop over to Meares Island Tribal Park. Meares Island is the location where the 'War of the Woods' first started in the 90s. If you thought the coast of Tofino felt like true wilderness prepare to change your mind. Make sure to choose a water taxi or tour company that donate the allotted amount of money at the time, to the first nations management of the trails within the tribal park.
The 2 most popular trails are the Big Tree Trail and Lone Cone Trail. You can get the boat to drop you off at each trail head 10 minutes to Big Tree and 15 to Lone Cone by boat.
The Big Tree Trail is just under 2 miles but most take about 2 hours to complete it with stops, and getting stuck in mud.
For a completely different experience try Lone Cone Trail, and get some of the best views of Clayoquot sound and out to the specific ocean, through the eyes of an eagle. It is 4.5 miles, and will take you 4-5 hours with stops, as it is steep (45+ degrees to be precise) and classified difficult but provides you with views like no other.
Gallerys
House of Himwitsa
Owned and operated by members of the Ahousaht first nation. You'll find art work, carvings, jewellery and traditional weaving by various talents and recognised local native artists. In the local language of the Nuu-chah-nulth first nations, Himwitsa means "The passing of knowledge from the elders to the young'. A great place to visit, support and pick up some art to remember you're trip to Vancouver Island.
Eagle Aeri Gallery by Roy Henry Vickers
You can't miss the carved building that houses the Eagle Aeri Gallery. Roy Henry Vickers is a world renowned Canadian First Nations Artist. His work can be found in museums and gallerys throughout the globe, but the best place is here in Tofino. Roy's father was a fishermen, descending from 3 of the northwest coast First Nations; Tsimshian, Haida and Heiltsuk. His mother was orginally from England. This mix of heritage has a clear influence in his art.
Food
Described as a 'culinary scene that is thriving above its weight nationally'
Here's our two favourite restaurant so good we returned! :
Sobo
Shelter
Other food suggestions:
Wolf in the fog
Summit bread co
Basic goodness pizzeria
1909
Rhino coffee house
Socks and Sandals
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